My heart is so happy that I got to go surfing while I was visiting home. And I got to go twice!
In a previous post from Madagascar, I mentioned how even though surfing is epic fun, I’m not incredibly good and it gives me loads of anxiety. But despite that, I still do it every time I get the chance and it’s actually paying off.
I can gladly say this last time I caught more waves than I usually get and the nerves weren’t there so much. I didn’t worry about shark attacks or crashing face-first into the sand or getting pummeled by a monster wave or looking like an idiot. And, woah, not spending all my energy worrying meant I had enough to actually catch waves! It also helped that the water was super glassy and the waves were superb that day.